Roof Replacement Dallas: A Clear Guide That Puts Your Home First

A spring front rolls across North Texas, the sky goes green, and the next morning you see granule piles at the downspouts and a few ridge-cap crumbs in the flowerbed. Maybe you’ve patched leaks twice already. Do you repair once more—or is it time to replace?

We’re REC Roofing—local to DFW and East Texas—with free inspections, a licensed insurance adjuster on staff, and a calm, photo-documented process. This guide explains when replacement makes sense, how we plan the work in Dallas neighborhoods, and the choices that help your new roof last through our heat, hail, and north winds. We’ll keep the language plain and the steps predictable.

Do you actually need a replacement—or is a repair enough?

Repair usually makes sense when:

• The issue traces to one failed boot, a short section of ridge cap, or a valley detail that needs correcting.

• Shingles are still pliable with healthy granules, and damage is localized.

Replacement is worth talking about when:

• Hail bruises are spread evenly across slopes, not clustered in a corner.

• Ridge caps are splitting along multiple hips and the shingle seals are tired.

• You’re seeing repeated leaks from different spots—wall flashing, then a boot, then a valley.

• Granule loss is heavy at multiple downspouts and shingles look bare at edges.

• The roof is at or past its expected service life for our climate.

We’ll map the roof slope by slope, explain the “why,” and show the photos so your decision is grounded—not guessed.

CTA — Free Local Inspection

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Call 945-REC-7777 or Schedule your free inspection → What we check during a Dallas replacement inspection

• Decking & fastener hold: Older 3/8" or weathered 1/2" decking can show nail pull-through (“shiners” in the attic). If fasteners won’t bite, we plan localized decking patches before new shingles go on.

• Underlayment condition: Torn or wrinkled underlayment at eaves/valleys signals heat fatigue; we spec high-temperature synthetic where the sun punishes first.

• Valleys: Woven/closed-cut valleys that collect granules vs. open metal valleys that shed debris—choice depends on lot and tree cover.

• Ridge & hips: Are we using a matched ridge cap or cut-up field shingles? Ridges are stress points in Dallas wind.

• Penetrations & vents: Pipe boots, box/turtle vents, turbines, and skylights—hail and heat show up here first.

• Wall and chimney flashing: Clay-soil movement opens step-flashing gaps along brick and stucco. We check for kick-outs and proper counter-flashing set into mortar, not just surface caulk.

• Ventilation balance: We verify soffit intake is clear and size exhaust (ridge/box/turbine) to match. A cooler attic keeps seals tacky and ridge caps from cracking.

You’ll get a written scope with photos, not a one-line estimate.

The day-by-day timeline (what it actually feels like)

Before install (2–7 days):

• Color/profile finalization and material order. If an HOA wants a swatch, we drop one.

• We’ll flag satellite dishes and schedule a re-seal on the bracket after install.

• If a claim is filed, we can coordinate the roof inspection with your carrier and share our scope. We don’t negotiate claims. This article is general information, not legal advice.

Delivery day:

• Shingles arrive by moffett or rooftop lift. We stage materials so they don’t block your garage or AC. No pallets on delicate drive edges.

• If weather turns, we wait. A dry start beats a rushed start.

Install day (most Dallas homes = 1 day; complex/two-story can be 1–2):

• Protect: tarps over landscaping, plywood where needed, ladder mitts on the gutters.

• Tear-off & deck prep: we strip to decking, mark bad panels, set new decking patches where nails won’t hold.

• Dry-in: high-temp underlayment where called for; ice/water barriers at valleys/low-slope transitions as needed by design.

• Details first: flashings, kick-outs, pipe boots, and valley metal go in with correct laps.

• Shingle system: starters at eaves and rakes, then field shingles with proper nail line and count.

• Ridge/hips & ventilation: matched ridge cap system; ridge vent cut where it makes sense. If the ridge is short, we supplement with hail-rated box vents, still fed from soffits.

• Clean-up: magnetic sweep, gutters cleared of granules, and a yard walkthrough. We leave the site tidy.

After:

• Final photo set and a quick homeowner walk-through. We go over maintenance and what to watch after the first long rain.

Materials that hold up in Dallas (what actually matters)

Shingles

• Impact-resistant (Class 3/4) profiles aren’t hail-proof but resist fractures and age better through our heat/hail cycle.

• We match the ridge cap to the field shingle—mixing a standard cap over an IR field creates a weak point.

Underlayment

• High-temperature synthetic at eaves, valleys, and tricky transitions; standard felts slump in August attics.

Valleys

• Open metal valleys (proper gauge/width) shed granules and needles better in debris-heavy lots (Lake Highlands, Preston Hollow).

• Reinforced closed-cut valleys are fine when built correctly and the lot stays clean.

Flashing

• Step-flashing, one piece per shingle course at walls; counter-flashing cut into mortar joints for brick/stucco.

• Kick-outs at the base of sidewalls keep water out of siding and fascia.

Ventilation

• Balanced system: soffit intake that equals or exceeds exhaust. Mixed exhaust types need a plan or they short-circuit each other.

Cost & schedule drivers (why bids differ)

We price after inspection, but here’s what moves the number:

• Roof shape & access: Steep two-story rears and chopped ridges add safety time and staging.

• Ridge/hip length: More linear feet = more ridge cap and more labor.

• Valleys & metal work: Open metal valleys and chimney/wall flashing take careful time.

• Decking condition: If we see wide pull-through, decking patches are the right call.

• Ventilation corrections: Opening soffit intake and cutting new ridge vents is real work, not an add-on line.

• Storm-week supply: After big hail, certain profiles and vents can be scarce for a week. We’ll be clear on lead times and prioritize active leaks for temporary dry-in.

No scare tactics, no vague allowances—just a scope you can read and ask about.

Insurance collaboration—calm and neutral

We’re not adjusters, and we don’t negotiate claims. Here’s how we assist if you file:

• Documentation: time-stamped photos by slope; a clear written scope with materials and details.

• Inspection coordination: we can meet your carrier at the roof and answer build questions.

• Sequence clarity: temporary dry-in for leaks → adjuster meeting (if filed) → material selection → install.

• Paper trail: keep receipts for emergency tarps or interior protection.

For a plain-language primer on storm recovery and working with contractors, see the Texas Department of Insurance roofing guidance (consumer resources on their site).

This article is general information, not legal advice.

How to prep your home the day before

• Move cars from the driveway; clear patio furniture and grills near eaves.

• Take fragile items off walls and high shelves—tear-off thumps.

• Mow the yard the day before; short grass helps our magnets find nails.

• Mark sprinkler heads near drives and walkways.

• Let neighbors know about the delivery window if street space is tight.

A typical Dallas replacement (short story)

A family near Lake Highlands had patched two leaks in as many seasons. Our inspection showed even hail bruising, split ridge caps on the west hip, and blocked soffit intake where paint sealed vents. We replaced soft decking strips near the ridge, installed high-temp underlayment at eaves/valleys, switched to open metal valleys under the pine tree side, corrected intake with baffles, and used a matched Class 4 system with reinforced ridge caps. The next spring brought quarter-size hail and a long north wind rain. The gutters held a normal peppering of granules, but there were no stains and no service call. Quiet roof. That’s the goal.

After your new roof: simple maintenance that pays

• Spring glance: check soft metals and ridge lines after hail; call if vents are dented.

• Soffits: keep intake clear—no paint over vents; add or straighten baffles if insulation drifts.

• Trees: trim branches that brush shingles; wind turns them into sanders.

• Gutters: granules collect after new installs and storms; keep channels open at eaves.

• Annual check: a 15–20 minute professional look catches small things before holiday rains do.

Internal links

• Thinking through options? Our Dallas replacement page: /roof-replacement-dallas

• Need repair steps instead in Fort Worth? /roof-repair-fort-worth

• East Texas homeowner? Start here: /roofing-tyler-east-texas

FAQ

How long does a roof replacement take in Dallas?

Most single-family homes finish in one day when access is good. Complex, steep, or two-story designs can run one to two days. Weather can shift schedules—we won’t start without a dry window.

Do I need to be home?

Not required. We’ll walk the property with you beforehand, protect landscaping, and do a final walkthrough. Keep pets inside, and move vehicles from the drive.

Are impact-resistant shingles worth it here?

Often, yes. They resist fractures and age better through our heat/hail cycle. They aren’t hail-proof, and metals/flashings still matter. We’ll bring samples and discuss trade-offs.

Will my insurance cover a replacement?

Coverage depends on your policy and cause of damage. We document, coordinate inspections if you file, and answer build questions. We don’t negotiate claims or offer legal advice.

What should I watch after install?

After the first long rain, check ceilings under valleys, skylights, and chimneys. Expect some granules in gutters early—that’s normal. Call if you notice anything off.

CTA — Free Local Inspection | Roof Replacement Dallas

Considering roof replacement in Dallas? Talk to a local pro today.

Call 945-REC-7777 or Schedule your free inspection →